New England & Maine

• Region: US north-east, from Newport, Rhode Island up the Maine coast to Mount Desert Island
• Season: mid-June to late September, with August the peak
• Distance: roughly 250 nautical miles from Newport to Mount Desert by the coastal route
• Newport: Safe Harbor Newport Shipyard, 3,500 linear feet of dock, yachts over 300 feet, travel lifts of 500, 200 and 150 tonnes
• Maine refit: Safe Harbor Front Street Shipyard at Belfast, 485-ton lift, yachts to 200 feet, over 100 marine staff
• Penobscot Bay: islands include Vinalhaven, North Haven, Islesboro and Isle au Haut, with harbours at Camden, Rockland, Castine and Stonington
• Mount Desert Island: 108 square miles, Acadia National Park, Cadillac Mountain at 466 metres
• Nantucket: about 30 miles south of Cape Cod, resident population 14,255 rising to around 80,000 in summer
• Defining hazards: summer fog and a very high density of lobster gear
• Newport history: hosted the America's Cup from 1930 to 1983 and starts the 635-nautical-mile Newport Bermuda Race
• Charter: the Passenger Vessel Services Act bars foreign-flagged vessels from carrying passengers between US ports
• Airports: Boston Logan, Providence, Nantucket, Martha's Vineyard, Portland and Bar Harbor

The shape of the coast

The ground divides cleanly in two. Southern New England is Newport, Block Island, Cuttyhunk, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket, a compact cluster of harbours in warmer, sandier water with a heavy summer social calendar. Maine, beginning about 100 miles north-east, is granite, spruce and thousands of islands, with Penobscot Bay and Mount Desert as its two great cruising areas. The Cape Cod Canal joins them and saves the run round the outside of the Cape, with a tidal current that has to be worked and fixed bridges that set an air draft limit.

Water is deep almost everywhere, which is a relief after the Bahamas. Penobscot Bay reaches 145 metres at its deepest. The tidal range is measured in metres, not centimetres, so currents run hard through the island passages and a yacht at anchor swings through a much bigger circle than a Mediterranean crew expects. Depth is not what limits a large yacht here.

A week, and two weeks

A week out of Newport covers the southern islands comfortably. Block Island for the Great Salt Pond, Cuttyhunk, Edgartown on Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket, with a night back in Newport at either end. Legs are short, the harbours are close together and guests get a different town every day. That week is more social than scenic.

Two weeks is what Maine needs, and it is the better fortnight. Through the canal, up past Boothbay to Penobscot Bay for five or six days among the islands, then east to Mount Desert for Acadia and Northeast Harbor. Turning round adds another four days at sea, so many owners run the boat north with the crew and fly guests in and out at each end. That is how the coast is actually used by the yachts that come back every year.

Twelve weeks, two refit yards and anchorages a yacht can have entirely to herself.

Newport and the southern harbours

Newport is the yachting capital of the American east coast and it wears its history openly. It hosted the America's Cup from 1930 to 1983, it starts the Newport Bermuda Race over 635 nautical miles every other year, and the New York Yacht Club has its summer station here. The Gilded Age mansions along Bellevue Avenue, The Breakers and Marble House among them, are open to the public and are the one guest excursion that never fails. Fort Adams hosts the Newport Jazz and Folk festivals, both running since the 1950s.

Nantucket is the other set-piece. Thirty miles out into the Atlantic, a preserved whaling town of cobbles and grey shingle, with a resident population of about 14,000 that swells towards 80,000 in summer. Edgartown on Martha's Vineyard is the quieter version of the same idea. Both harbours are shallow and crowded in August, so a large yacht lies outside and runs guests in, which is easy in settled weather and unpleasant when it blows.

Maine: Penobscot Bay and Mount Desert

Penobscot Bay is the heart of it. Islands by the hundred, working lobster harbours at Rockland and Stonington, summer colonies on North Haven and Islesboro, and Camden with its schooner fleet under Mount Battie. Anchorages here are genuinely empty. A yacht can spend a week in the bay and share an anchorage with nobody, which is close to impossible in the Mediterranean at any time of year.

Mount Desert Island is the eastern anchor, 108 square miles of it, most of it inside Acadia National Park. Cadillac Mountain rises to 466 metres directly above the water. Northeast Harbor is the yacht harbour and the discreet end of the island. Bar Harbor is the busy end and takes cruise ships. Guests walk the carriage roads, climb Cadillac for the sunrise and eat popovers at Jordan Pond, and the scenery does the work.

Where a 50 metre boat fits, and where it does not

Safe Harbor Newport Shipyard sits in downtown Newport with 3,500 linear feet of dock, takes yachts of over 300 feet and runs travel lifts of 500, 200 and 150 tonnes. It is a full refit yard as well as a berth, and it is the reason a large yacht can base a whole summer here. At the northern end, Safe Harbor Front Street Shipyard in Belfast lifts to 485 tons, handles yachts to 200 feet and employs more than a hundred marine trades.

Between those two there is very little alongside berthing for anything over 40 metres. Camden, Rockland, Northeast Harbor and Boothbay all have moorings and small marinas built for the local fleet. Nantucket and Edgartown are shallow and their berths are booked out. In Maine the answer is always to anchor, which is exactly what an owner should want here, because the anchorages are the attraction. What it means practically is that guests move by tender in cold water and frequent fog.

Weather, fog and the months

Fog is the defining feature of the Maine summer. Warm air moving over very cold water produces days, sometimes several consecutive days, when visibility closes to a few hundred metres. July is the worst month for it. Radar and a careful watch are not optional, and neither is the assumption that a scheduled guest arrival may not happen. August and early September are clearer, warmer and generally the best weeks of the year.

Water temperature in Maine rarely leaves the teens Celsius even at the height of summer, so the swim platform is largely decorative and the toys go unused. Southern New England is warmer and swimmable. Late August into September carries a real if low probability of a tropical system tracking up the coast, and the season closes on that. October is beautiful ashore and finished afloat.

The season and the weeks already spoken for

The usable window is roughly twelve weeks, from mid-June to late September. Newport's charter yacht show in June opens it and fills the shipyard. The Fourth of July and the middle two weeks of August are when the southern harbours are at their worst, with Nantucket and Edgartown moorings gone months ahead and the anchorages busy. Maine barely notices any of this.

The compression is the problem. Yard slots, moorings and crew all have to fit into one short season, and a boat that arrives in July has already lost a third of it. Owners who use the coast seriously commit in the winter. Anyone hoping to arrive in August and find a Newport berth will be disappointed.

Getting guests aboard, and what they eat

Boston Logan and Providence serve the southern half, both under two hours by road from Newport. Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard have their own airports with heavy seasonal private traffic. For Maine, Portland is the main gateway and the Hancock County airport at Trenton puts guests fifteen minutes from Northeast Harbor. The weak point is fog, which closes the small Maine fields and diverts the light jets more often than owners expect.

The food is regional and very good at the top end. Lobster straight off the boat in Stonington, oysters from the Damariscotta river, and serious restaurants in Newport, Nantucket and Portland. Rockland has the Farnsworth Art Museum and its Wyeth collection. Nightlife essentially does not exist north of Portland, and that is why people come.

Support, charter law and the honest downside

Technical support is a genuine strength. Two full refit yards at either end of the ground, a dense network of Maine boatbuilders and riggers in between, and parts sourced overnight from the rest of the United States. Fuel and provisioning are straightforward in Newport, Portland and Rockland, thinner further east. Clearance for foreign-flagged yachts is routine and a cruising licence covers private use.

The downsides are the fog, the lobster gear and the length of the season. Lobster buoys carpet the Maine coast in numbers that make night passages inadvisable and force a permanent bow watch by day. The Passenger Vessel Services Act bars foreign-flagged vessels from carrying passengers between US ports, so a foreign-flag yacht cannot run a crewed charter here. And a boat that comes north for the summer is a boat that is not in the Mediterranean, which for most owners is the real cost.

Who it is for: An owner who has done the Mediterranean summer for years, wants cold clean water and empty anchorages, and does not need the boat to earn while she is there.